My big sister (older by 10 days short of a year) celebrated her birthday at the end of October. Two years ago I made her a leather bag and last year I made her a Coco. This year she said she would like another Coco and chose this sparkly ponte knit from Minerva:
So onwards and upwards. I completed her Coco in about 1 1/2 hours (I’ve made a few so can almost do them with my eyes shut, they seem to be our family uniform!).
It was just as well that I got a photo of her new Coco on Gertrude as these were the best of the photo shoot in the pub:
Anyway, she loved it! I loved it! I wanted to keep it! But instead I ordered another 5 metres of this gorgeous fabric just for me! I was thinking another Morris Blazer, Christmas Coco, Sallie Jumpsuit…. would 5m be enough with all what I had in mind!!??
And then it happened. Colette released their new dress pattern – The Wren and I bought a dress from a fancy charity shop that happened to be a wrap dress, and also happened to make me look like I’d lost 2 stones in weight!
So that was it!! New Wren pattern bought and plans formed to use shiny silver ponte knit for said wrap dress!
I’ve a posh black tie do to go to in a couple of weeks so I’m hoping this will be just the ticket! Oops!!! Just checked the website so I can show you where we’re off and it’s next Monday, not the Monday after, best get mi skates on!! — It’s the Yorkshire White Rose Awards which is going to be held at the new Leeds Arena and I’m really excited!
So you’re here really to read about the Wren aren’t you! Click on the photo below for the link to the Colette website.
Here’s muslin number 1 (apologies for flesh that hasn’t seen daylight since last december but if I didn’t show these then the post would be a bit pointless wouldn’t it?)
Front view – really really short! Do I really have such a long body!!?? Or maybe it’s the boobs? But I’m only a B cup!
Back view – length ok, could really do with a slight sway back adjustment. And very tight!
Another back view, showing the need for a sway back adjustment a bit better:
I made a few notes after the first fitting. I’m so glad I used the proper fabric.
I measure 41/34.5/40 . I initally traced off a size large which is for a 40-42/32-34/42-44 with finished measurements of 38 1/4 – 33 3/4 – 39 3/4
Fabric suggestions are; Light to medium weight knit fabrics with at least 25% stretch, baby rib knit, French terry, double knit, ITY.
Although mine isn’t as stretchy I’m sure I read somewhere that version 1 with the narrow skirt would work better with a more stable knit.
Anyway, I sized up to an XL. The finished garment measurements on this size are just over my own measurement so a little bit of ease.
ALTERATIONS I MADE TO MY PATTERN:
Lengthened all bodice pieces by 4cm.
Moved the armscye curve inwards to allow room to make a dart to eliminate the gapeage. Only changed the armscye on the front and not the back piece.
I added 2 cm to the bottom width of the neckband to increase coverage at the front. I didn’t increase it at all at the top – you can see the new edge which would no longer be parallel with the grainline so I drew in a new grainline which is now parallel. (hope that makes sense!)
Now here comes the tricky bit.
I added 4 cm to the back piece but them did a 5cm sway back adjustment. I had to look this up and found THIS tutorial on Kitchycoo’s blog to be most useful. I needed SBAs before but never bothered. Was quite easy, don’t really know what I was scared of!
I wasn’t really sure where to cut the hinge so I did it just below the shorten/lengthen lines.
I ended up with an odd shaped back piece. Let’s see what happened after I sewed it up.
Yay! It reaches my navel! Result!
Frontal gapeage acceptable, after all I’m sure there will be plenty of low cut frocks at the do!
Side seam looks vertical. Slight gapeage on the back armscye but only when arms are up!
Back looks so much better. The 5cm sway back seemed a bit drastic after adding 4cm to the length but it worked!
And just one last one. For this photo I pulled the front down. Not loads but enough to give an idea what if would look like with the skirt attached.
I’m really happy with how this 2nd muslin fits. I just wish I’d pre-washed the fabric before I made this up. I’m a bit scared to use it for the real thing without a prewash.
For the making of the actual dress I’m going to make a few changes:
- I want to line the bodice so I can have neater finished on the neckline and front bands. The pattern calls for just turning and stitching with a double needle, but i think I need a neater finish for a posh frock.
- I’m thinking of adding sheer fitted sleeves – some sort of black nylon type of fabric. Yet to find and running out of time!
- Making the skirt maxi length.
I should imagine there’ll be a few more changes before I finish properly. Until then……..Cheerio 😉
PS Sorry for the blog post overload! I’m just making the most of the beginning of the week when I’ve 3 days off and H is back to school!