Back in October one of my besties went to Fabworks and with the help of the ladies there bought me these 3 pieces of fabric for my birthday. I made the Woodland Cape with grey/red and lined it in the red but still had all these lips blowing kisses at me every time I went in my sewing room.
The lips fabric is a soft drapy crepe with a hint of stretch across the width. Perfect for this pattern, and not the end of the world if it doesn’t work as I wasn’t sure at this point if it was really my cup of tea.
Before I get down to the nitty gritty and share lots of photos of the ups and down in this new relationship why not have a listen to The Brotherhood of Man?!
This song just takes me back! How come I still know all the words when I’ve not heard it for years! Check out the outfit on the far right – could that possibly be a jumpsuit!!??
Swiftly moving on!
As nearly everything I’ve made has needed a sway back adjustment, and i’ve always found out too late and just put up with it on the finished garment I decided to do one whilst tracing off the pattern.
I removed a 2 inch wedge. No technical workings out here except that it’s unusually a good inch that I can pinch out on finished garments. Even RTW ones, which results in them being left in the store after trying on.
Most of you will either not need to read this as you don’t need one, or have already done one and so don’t need to read it either.
But this chopping off a wedge can apply to anywhere so if you’re new to adapting the fit (like me!) then maybe if might be worth reading on, other wise feel free to skip forward to the colourful part!
Above you can see I’ve lost 1 1/2 inch from the bottom width of the pattern piece so I added it to the other side. But I only added 1 1/4 inch using the original side seam line as a guide. On hindsight I maybe should have gone out the full 1 1/2 inch as it is a little snug on the hips.
Just to mention – I initially forgot to snip into the seam allowance and make my hinge on the stitching line (see above where the little black cross is on the right side of the horizontal red line). So i redid it and it made not difference!! See below…
So I went back to how it was!
The only things left to do was straighten the grainline, true up the bottom of the centre back and straighten up those pleats marks.
As this was getting a bit messy, once I’d made all the change i retraced another piece but saved this for future reference.
Luckily I managed to get this done at work so it didn’t feel like it took so long. Usually I’m chomping at the bit want to get sewing but that was out of the question with being at work.
The fabric behaved surprisingly well – it’s floaty crepe-iness clung to my cutting board and there was minimal sliding about. I didn’t attempt any pattern matching at the lips were so random it didn’t thing it would matter.
When it came to actually making it up there was much head scratching and cups of coffee before I’d even pinned the front pleats!
But once I transferred the markings on to the right side of the fabric it was fairly straight forward.
I added the 2 rows of gathering stitches as instructed, but when I got to the gathering stage I decided that I didn’t like them.
To compensate for the lack of gathers I brought the pleat together at the centre. I added the row of basting stitches an inch below the top to help everything stay in place when I added the binding.
The sleeves also said to gather and bind, but i left without gathers and hemmed using my usual easy pease method, same as the bottom hem…..
Sew a row of stitches 3/8 inch from the fabric edge.
Turn under and press so the stitching is just inside.
Turn under once more and sew from the right side. No pins needed, just take care to set it up and watch where the fabric is on the presser foot so you can sew it evenly. You should be able to feel the edge of the fabric as it goes through so you’ll know you’ve caught it. Just take it steady!
I added a thread looper – making it using the
cheats easy method!
And secured it in place before finishing adding my bias tape.
And a quick rummage in my button box and it was finished!
Here’s the finished garment on Gertrude – it actually fits her very well, but she’s not carrying the extra 10 pounds or so that I am!
The pleats seam to disappears into the fabric.
The raglan sleeves and back hang really well.
Close up of the cute little button!
The back opening was really easy – just double turned the seam allowance – was much neater than I imagined it would be, I’ve not done one like that before.
Close up of the front pleats.
Now for some fun in the garden! It was a bit chilly, and I don’t often have the assistance of my Blog Manager, but as he’s going skiing next week with the school his usual sweet nature is more obliging than usual. So I took complete advantage and he photographed me wearing my last 3 makes.
3 makes in just over 2 weeks!! I am actually working backwards here as I only finished this lip smacker off today but will hopefully be able to get chance to write up the other 2 in the next few days. I really need to catch up on my reader too, and reply to quite a few comments on my last couple of posts!
No I’m not being shy! I just can’t wait to show you the result of the sway back adjustment! This is really something I’ll do in everything (not stretchy) before I get to the cutting out stage, even if it means adding a centre back seam.
I thing maybe i need to flatten the pattern out on the bottom as it goes up in the middle. More truing up i think.
The top is a bit weird how the pleats fall over the bust. If I stand up straight and don’t move they’re okay!
I don’t think the missing gathers help with the fabric gathering at the front around the pleats. The neckline I expect is probably an inch lower as there are no gathers to lift it.
It’s growing on me though, and once I loose a few pounds (which I will, as I’m back running after having a lazy last 4 weeks and put a few back on) I think the top won’t be as snug on the waist and hips and will drape better over the bust.
Ooops! Not sure what I was doing here! Looks like the start of a wonder women twirl!!
That’s it for now!
Maybe just to mention in case you’re thinking of making this top – i missed off the side zip that was called for. I stitched it up in the hope I didn’t need it, but had my stitch ripper handy in case I did. And i didn’t!
If you want to have one more listen to the Brotherhood of Man and don’t fancy scrolling back here we are! I always remember listening to this with “tie a yellow ribbon round the old oak tree…..”. That was one of my favourites too!
Same song – different video and more inspirational outfits….!
Late edit… I tried it on for hubby….. ‘Wow’, he said. ‘That looks really expensive!’ ….me ….. BIG smile, yay! 😉