T H I M B E R L I N A

Latest Posts

Inspiration from People Watching – #pictureheavypost!

Published by Thimberlina

One of the pitfalls I find of making my own clothes is feeling a bit ‘our of it’ when it comes to knowing what’s in fashion.

Though I don’t see me self as a style guru, I still like to have a look around to see what colours and styles on on the high street and copy some looks that I think would flatter me. If I’m not careful I could end up looking like an 80’s throwback!

So when I went to the Ladies Day at York races yesterday my eyes were out on stalks! Such amazing colours, styles and hats. There was even a catwalk should you fancy your chances at winning the best dressed!

If you’re attending a big event soon you might want to see just what’s out there, so I’ve taken lots of pics to share with you.

Fascinator borrowed from my mum! I know now that a need a bigger one for the wedding in September

This is as close as I got to a horse!

Sway back adjustment??

Wish I could have taken a better photo – this was a black jumpsuit with a border print from the knee down.

Love this jumpsuit. It reminds me of the Holly Jumpsuit from the back with culottes style trousers.

Enter a caption

Shapewear?

Ooops! Hope that’s the wine that’s caused the puddle!!

I noticed some groups or ladies looked to be coordinated, wonder if it was accidental?

2 ladies checking to see if they had been short listed for the best dressed.

There was even a stand selling hats.

Another group of coordinated ladies.

Do you recognise the fabric on the right? I’m sure I’ve seen it online – maybe on Truro fabric or Minerva? My fellow sewers might even know this lady! It did look studding in the sunshine – I’m thinking another skort!

The blue dress really wowed me! I wish I dared have stopped her and take a photo of the front too.

Clever use of a zip. I think the hardest thing copying this look would be sourcing a suitable zip.

No pattern matching her,or is there? They could have intentionally mismatched it as the thick wide stripes match the opposite colours in the skirt.

This was simple but stunning in ‘real life’.

Definitely need something bigger on my head next time, especially as I have such a tall hubby!

Are we worrying necessarily about matching stripes?? I bet this lady hasn’t even noticed. Or is it intentional?

Absolutely love these 2 ‘hats’ – my favourite of the day!

Well, I’ve come to the conclusion that at a big ‘do” like the races, anything goes! It doesn’t matter if your spotty and stripes don’t match. And it doesn’t matter if you need a sway back adjustment.

The main thing to remember is Shapewear! It doesn’t matter how stunning your frock is or how well it fits if your showing off the shape of your knickers of belly button underneath! I’ve a contraption from M&S that incorporates a strapless bra, then continues right down towards my knees. Theres a gusset sewn in. It’s skin colour. If I ever had an accident and had to go to hospital I’d die of embarrassment! But it takes an inch or everywhere and smoothes out my clothes.

Belize Skort Hack

Published by Thimberlina

I’ve had loads of compliments this week wearing my different variations of Itch-To-Stitches Belize Shorts and Skorts – both on and off the golf course. My favourite feature of all the 5 variations is the curved back skirt on the skort version.

I thought I’d have a go at making a version with a curved hem at the front as well as the back. It was really successful so I thought I’d share it with you.

First of all I measured the width of the back curved skirt and compared it to the front short pieces – the ones without the pleats. I couldn’t use the pointy skort pieces as these overlap so I would have be hard to work out the width.

Taking the seam allowances into consideration the skort back piece was near enough the same width as the shorts front so I felt able to just use the back piece for the skort front.

I compared the shape of waist/hip curve of short piece to my new skort front (i.e. the skort back!).

I’ve drawn an orange line on the edge of the top pattern piece – the short front – so you can see how it compares with the skort front (the curved skort back with no adjustments).

I didn’t think the light different would make any difference except I’d need to draft new pocket pieces.

First lay the original pocket facing on top of the back curved skort. The yellow coloured in part at the top is what needs adding to the new pocket facing. Draw around the original pocket facing but true it up with the top level of the skort.

When you’ve cut your new pocket facing out, place it back in position and draw the curve onto the back skort. Trace of a copy of the back piece but with the added curve for the pocket.

We now need a pocket back. Place the pocket facing onto the back piece and draw around the facing.

Trace of the pocket as shown below.

To make the curved fronted skort you will now have the following new pieces:

curved front piece with cut out for pocket – cut 1 on the fold
pocket facing – cut 2
pocket – cut 2

With the exception of the pocket pieces and the pointy front skort pieces all the other pieces need to be cut out the same as view E.

I bought 2 x 1m pieces of 90cm wide fabric as I wanted to have a matching sort of clashing thing going on underneath my skort. I was just able to manage it, but I didn’t measure my fabric before and after washing to see if it had shrunk any.

I wasn’t able to make the skirt facing in the same fabric back and front.

I really wanted them to be in the spotty fabric, but couldn’t make it work, so had spotty on the front facing and flowery on the back. But this only just fitted, well it didn’t really but it work – the stitching line is the lower part of the facing.

I’ve made 4 pairs now and for all of them I’ve not had enough fabric to cut the waistband on the foldline. If you’re the same don’t forget to add a seam allowance. And also, position the seams at the side – apply the interfacing in the centre of one of the pieces, not where it’s shown on the pattern piece.

I was on a bit of a tight deadline making this skort. I’d finished cutting out at 8:20 and was teeing off at 10:50, and wanted to wear them!

The shorts were sewn up in less than 10 minutes – all except hemming. Although the instructions say to hem at this point I like to try them on when finished and just check the length of the shorts against the skort.

Sew pockets onto the front piece as per the instructions, and then sew the facings on the the front and back skirt pieces, as per the instructions.

The skirt front facing should just tuck under the pocket bag.

When you sew the facing down, as per instructions, just lift the pocket bag and of the way.

Finish each side of the skirt front and back with a zig-zag or overlocker.

Stitch side seams – stopping at the stitching line for the facing. Press open.

On the right side stitch as shown below to create the slip in the side seams.

Add the waist band as per instructions, and then your finished!!

I managed to get these finished at 10:15, – so just under 2 hours after cutting out. So quite a quick make, but after making 3 pairs already I didn’t need to consult the instructions.

So here I am strolling along towards the 5th green:

And a few close up on the hanger after they’ve been washed – yes, they’re ready for their next round!

#SundaySevens 67

Published by Thimberlina

Hello!

Hope you’ve all had a lovely week and the weather’s been kind to you wherever you are. I really don’t know how I did what I did last week. There’s no way in a month of Sundays than I could narrow it down to just 7 photos for you – so what’s new!

Natalie from Threads and Bobbins thought up the Sunday Sevens nearly 2 years ago as a way of posting snippets of your week that maybe wouldn’t warrant a blog post all on their own. You don’t have to sign your life away to join in – just jump in and out as you please – or go for the long haul like me.

Monday

I got stuck into making my Belize shorts as a fitting lesson for making the skort. I spent all day and night sewing. It was ace! I made the shorts and almost finished the skort too.

Here’s a tip if for any reason you need to stop sewing, for example when sewing the waistbank on the belize shorts – stick a pin right in the way so you don’t sew too far! I spent all day and night sewing. It was ace! I made the shorts and almost finished the skort too.

Tuesday

I was playing golf at 10am on Tuesday but got up early and finished my skort.

The water lilies on the pond on the 11th are in flower and look stunning….

After golf we went out for tea with the MIL, and brother in law and his misses. I felt I’d earned a pud and had a sticky toffee pudding, with cream and custard!

When we arrived home I set about making my PJ’s in liberty fabric using the Belize shorts pattern.

Wednesday

I finished my PJs before going of for lunch

– again I couldn’t resist a pudding. I was almost full after my omelette but thought the lemon meringue pie could be included in my 5 a day.

We went to a cafe that used to be an egg farm and they have a small holding with a few animals….

Afterwards I took the MIL to boots for some new makeup for the wedding in September.

In the evening I made a start cutting out my next dress – a hack of Vogue 9082. Here are my new pattern weights:

Thursday

A whole day of sewing! And an evening cricket match. H was playing cricket for Rastick at home – aptly named Roundhill cricket club ……. Sorry for the naff photo, but I was watching from inside as it was a bit windy.

When we got home I tried on my dress so far. Ignore miserable face, I wasn’t really! You get the idea but think it needs taking in quite a bit.

Friday was an early start. I was taking H, his cousin and 2 pals to a new water park in Scarborough. We were leaving at 8:0, at 7:30 (before I’d made the picnic) I decided I needed a new boob tub and made this in less than 30 minutes.

I had gotton in touch with Corrine from Appleby makes and had arranged to meet her for a coffee and a catch up. She took us to a cafe with the most amazing views over the south shore.

It was lovely to have a catch up, and we squeezed in a bit of shopping too. I bought a new zip for my pink dress, and 2 pieces of cotton for my next skort. the green spotty is going to be the shorts and the flowery fabric the skirt.

Saturday I worked a shift on the ambulance for a pal who needed the day off. We were so busy! I had to call assistance from the air ambulance as we went to a patient who was in quite a remote area, and needed to be take to the Leeds Infirmary.

I managed to get to see H play cricket for a couple of hours after work, luckily the sun was shining. It was only on the tops above Todmorden that was a bit bleak.

Sunday

An early start – we took the jet ski to Whitby. It’s 22 years old now but still works like a dream. It’s 7 years since I last rode it but hadn’t lost my nerve and managed to jump a few big waves. The wet suit was a bit tight though! Probably due to all the cake I’ve eaten this week!

So that’s it – my week in one big nut shell!

Getting busy with Belize from Itch-To-Stitch

Published by Thimberlina

Itch To Stitch has just released their latest pattern – the Belize skort and shorts. She was asking for pattern testers not so long ago and I would have loved to help up but unfortunately the timescale didn’t match up with any free time I had.

I’ve never made a skort before, but have bought quite a few pairs over the years for golf, and they’re usually quite expensive. In the last couple of years I’ve cheated and I’ve made skirts for golf and worn gym shorts underneath.

This week I’ve been on annual leave and has loooooads of free time. So armed with my new pattern (which I managed to work out how to use layers and just print my size) I set about making the Belize Skort. This was Monday, and I wanted to wear them on Tuesday for golf!

There are 5 views for the skort and shorts:

View A: Pleated-front shorts with front pockets
View B: Flat-front shorts with front pockets
View C: Flat-front shorts with no pocket
View D: Skort with front pockets and shorts back
View E: Skort with front pockets and skirt back

Before cutting into my new fabric from my most recent shopping expedition I decided I’d make up view B in some reddy/pinky cotton chambray to make sure the fit was going to be right.

Kennis suggests going with your hip measurement only as the waist can be adjusted when adding the elastic.

My pattern piece only just fit on my narrow fabric. According to the instructions 45″ wide fabric isn’t suitable for sizes over a 12. You can see why in the photo above – my back piece only just fit and these were an 8 – though my fabric is slightly less than 45″.

If you really wanted to make them in a narrow width fabric you could, although it wouldn’t be economical, but what does that usually matter if you’re hell bent on using a certain fabric!

I measure a 40″ hip so cut a straight size 8 all over. Despite being 3 3/4 inches on the waist bigger than the size 8 they fit perfect!

I’ve worn these short nearly every day since making them, I’ve even got them on now!

They are just so comfy as they have an elasticated back. The front is quite flattering with it being flat. As I have a small hip to waist ratio (I’ve only just recently discovered there was just a thing) the gathering on the waist at the back is quick minimal.

Hemmed with a twin needle.

2 rows of stitching with single needle for outer seam is just as neat at the twin!

As soon as I finished the short and was happy with the fit I ploughed ahead and cut the fabric out for the skort. I made the skirt part in the black and white fabric from Ditto, and used some left over fabric from last years Valentine’s Dress for the under shorts.

Yay! I got them finished! It meant staying up sewing until around 10pm and up at 7 amthe next morning, but with enough time to wash my hair they were ready to wear and I was feeling lucky!

The sun was shining when I left home, but after a 3 mile journey to the golf club the sky was covered with thick clouds. The jacket came on but I wasn’t going to be covering my legs up any time soon!

Pointy front view, above and wonky stance below – the skirt hem is curved but even, honest!

I braved the cold for a photo without my jacket. We had time for a quick photo shoot on the 5th tee as the ladies in front weren’t on the green yet – you can see them (just) in the background below.

Side view below – you can just about make out the contrasting fabric I used on the shorts and on the pockets.

Another wait on the 10th tee meant more photos.

the back is quite smooth and you’d hardly notice it is an elasticated skirt.

Cheeky! A quick flash at my innards!

Ooops! And a quick flash at the front too! I really wish now that I’d not used this for the inside but made them into a pair of shorts on their own. I might have to chop of my dress – it’s a bit big now anyway!

After the success of making the shorts and the skort there was no stopping me.

I knew just what was next on my sewing list – Belize bottom PJs!

I made view C – flat fronted and no pockets. After all I was going to used my most coveted fabric – the Liberty I purchased half price but had not dared to even pre wash never mind cut into.

This fabric is one of my all time favourites but I’d put off making anything with it I was worried it might end up not being worn very much. But lounge wear I wear all the time so these would definitely be worn loads. I don’t have a proper PJ pattern so for the top had a look through my prima pattern for something simple that didn’t require much fabric and found this top:

In no time at all I had PJs. Maybe 3 hours tops, including cutting out!

I even did some (not all) french seams and made my own bias binding. They’re so silky soft that I don’t want to take them off! And in case you’re wondering – you don’t need to pre wash Liberty. I didn’t and they still fit me after being washed twice.

So that’s little bit of what I’ve sewn up this week, wonder what else I had time to make!

(slight disclaimer – it’s been a long day, and I’ve had a glass of wine. I’m publishing this before I’ve read it through properly and apologise for any typos which there will inevitably be. night-night xx)

Oops! Accidentally Adding To The Stash

Published by Thimberlina

A couple of weeks ago the Tall Boy went on a cricket tour to Arundel in the south of England. We didn’t have to go with him as the whole team went together on a coach. But the hubby and I went to to watch, took our bikes and golf clubs and expected to make the most of the warmer southern weather that we’d heard about.

Unfortunately the only good days weather wise were the day we arrived and the day we left. So we played no golf, rode zero miles, and only saw 1 hour of cricket.

We did however stumble across 3 different fabric shops in 3 different towns!

First up, and totally by chance – Sarah Louise Designs in Arundel

The hubby still doesn’t believe me that I didn’t plan the visit to this shop!

How cute is this chicken tea cosy!?

I just love this gold spotty cotton! I didn’t buy it but I’m still in 2 minds and might have to buy a couple of metres online as it’s a bit of a trek!

Every corner of the shop had something which caught my eye

The only purchase I made was this yarn, I’ve started making a scarf. I’m thinking it’s going to be the start of my Christmas pressies but I bet I end up keeping it!

On one of the cricket/golf/bike-less days we headed into Horsham. We didn’t really know what to expect and again I didn’t google fabric shops – honest! But I found one – C & H Fabrics. At first I thought it was just a curtain fabric shop until I spotted the stair case leading to the dressmaking fabric dept. I ran up the stairs, and wasn’t disappointed.

Totally out of character I didn’t take one photo. Not one!! I wish I’d have taken a pic of the remnant table – it was FAB!! Big and small pieces. A lovely assistance called Jan was really helpful and didn’t bat an eyelid when I messed up the neat piles.

Here’s what I bought:

I metre of this quite thick, soft and stable jersey.

And 3 metres of this for another Vogue 9082 and maybe the jacket for my nieces wedding.

On our last day we headed into Brighton on our way home. It was warm and sunny – not sure why the sky looks so grey.

It wasn’t by chance we stumbled upon Ditto Fabrics. In fact it took some finding – only because we were looking in the wrong place!

Ditto is an Aladdin’s Cave! And if you have the patience to rummage amongst the vast rolls of fabric (which for us sewists is a pretty painless task!) you will be rewarded!

I found this stunning stripy organza and went in search of some fabric that could go underneath it as it’s see through.

Upstairs I went and found the same fabric in a different colour way. This was the one!! I’d been looking for something special to wear to my niece’s wedding in September. I thought I’d found ‘the one’ in Horsham )the pink above) but this was now ‘the one’!

And I found this linen with a really unusual sheen which looked fabulous with it.

And 2m of this stretch cotton: (you may recognise this if you follow me on IG)

And 1 metre of this horsey fabric for my work buddy Martin – not sure what I’ll yet, probably a peg bag for a change!

And then today I took the Tall Boy and his pals to Scarborough today to a new water park which opened in June. Corinne, a fellow Spoolette from Appleby Makes, lives in Scarborough so we met for a cuppa and a little bit of shopping!

I was quite restrained and only bought a zip, and a metre of each of the 2 fabric below from the Sewing Centre. If you’re into cotton and quilting it’s the place to be.

I was only on the look out for an outfit for the wedding and came away with a lot more on my impromptu fabric hunting trips. It’s a bit like going to the shops just for a loaf of bread and coming out with 3 bags full of groceries! Oops!

#SundaySevens 66

Published by Thimberlina

A Sunday Sevens Double Bill, on time if you count this one as this weeks and not last weeks, ……..my Sunday Sevens as thought up by the lovely Natalie over at Threads and Bobbins…..

1. Watching Yorkshire play cricket at Headingley, Leeds. This should have been in my last Sunday sevens post but it got missed. The sky was too amazing to not share it with you. I’ve not edited this pic at all, but I think the spot lights have cause a bit of havoc with exposure.

1. Pokemon even at the golf club!

2. Time for me to touch up cyber mims roots. Can’t imagine why she was camera shy!

3. Last year the cricket club was turned into a cafe through the week and it’s a lovely place for lunch, with scrummy homemade cakes.

4. This last academic year I’ve been a mentor to a first year student paramedic. Here’s Matt on his last shift with me. Next year he’ll be stationed elsewhere – all the best Matt!

5. Saturday 30th July was a sad night – the Frontier in Batley (Previously the Batley Variety Club) opened its doors for the last time. Unfortunately I was working so couldn’t go, but I was in the area and it was absolutely buzzing as I drove past – just like a proper night out in the 80’s.

6. Last week we were in Arundel for H’s cricket tour, I spotted this on a house in the next town.

7. Seaside Selfie!

8. I stumbled across a fab shop, quite by chance – though hubby didn’t quite believe me. Yarn, fabric, haberdashery and some wonderful hand made gifts. (I’m going to write a separate post about my sunny southern shopping experience).

9. The boys at Arundel Castle cricket ground.

10. Breakfast….I just couldn’t resist.

11. The fabric I didn’t buy…

12. Bubble Joe on the streets of Brighton.

13. I’ve bought the latest pattern from Itch To Stitch and got it taped together in my break at work. It’s a skorts pattern which look perfect for golf.

14. Sunday Sevens wouldn’t be the same without a bit of Yorkshire Scenery.

15. Little H is almost as big a his dad………Dad’s 6’3″!

16. H gave me selfie lessons….though I don’t think I’ve had any problems in the past, he thought there was room for improvement. I’m not sure I agree!

Cheerio for now!

Sewing With Raggedy Annie

Published by Thimberlina

Remember THE bag??

The one at the Fabbadashery that i accidentally stumbled upon.

Well, last week i attended a sewing class with Raggedy Annie, the creator of the said bag and learnt how to make my own! (it was last week when I starting writing the blog post, it’s not now!)

It was a full day class, from 10am till 4pm and was the best Saturday I’ve had in ages. It was a scorcher of a day, but the Fabbadashery’s work room has big doors which open right up, so it was cool and airy all day.

Annie showed us examples of the squares which make up the bag, and different ways to embellish them.

I say ‘squares’ very loosely as there’s not measuring or perfect corners. If you’re a bit OCD about having everything neatly lining up you may wish to beg your Doctor for some valium before attending this class!

And how to stitch them together

And all the different things that can be made from the squares – not just bags.

The table was rather neat at the start of the class as Annie showed us the basics of making the bags

The idea is that nothing matches, which was a bit of a challenge, but we all soon got into the swing of things

Not sure if my spotty back piece clashed quite enough, but it was a start!

Annie had a fab assortment of embroidery thread that she’d bought in a big bag from The Range. I think she said they were about £17, I neeeeed to go!

the table was starting to get a little bit messier

Once we’d all completed a few squares Annie showed us how to sew them together, and how to embellish them.

This is when things got really messy!

#raggedyannie #quiltasyougo #fabbadashery 643

#raggedyannie #quiltasyougo #fabbadashery 642

The day went so fast. I managed to make 5 ‘squares’, and turned 2 of them into a needle case, which is now at the other side of the pond keeping Del’s needles nice and safe.

Before I left i just couldn’t help fest my eyes over all the lovely fabrics in the Fabbadashery. Unfortunately I couldn’t stay long, but I’ll be back soon as I was lucky enough to receive a gift voucher from a special friend – THANKYOU…..you know who you are!

Before I posted of my needle case, I did a little more embellishment when I got home

If you’re in and around West Yorkshire and want to attend classes at the Fabbadashery here’s the link for the workshops – there’s all sorts of different ones:

http://www.thefabbadashery.com/workshops

You can also have a look at Annie’s website to see all the other clever stuff she can do! She can even do custom classes for you and your crafty buddies!

Raggedy Annie Website

(Just to let you know, I paid for my own class & all opinions are my own)

My First Quilt

Published by Thimberlina

At the start of the year we heard some amazing news – the hubby’s God-Daughter was expecting a baby! And now I had a real and proper reason now to make my first quilt.

I sweated over this for hours, and had sleepless nights and there weren’t even any fitting issues involved. I did discover when I went shopping that I needed a pattern and couldn’t just buy fabric willy nilly!

I came home with these lovely little lot after my Spoolette’s Meet Up at the Fabbadashery:

#firstquilt #babyquilt #disappearingsquare 627

#firstquilt #babyquilt #disappearingsquare 628

And 3 months later I had this!

#firstquilt #babyquilt #disappearingsquare 659

#firstquilt #babyquilt #disappearingsquare 642

#firstquilt #babyquilt #disappearingsquare 645

#firstquilt #babyquilt #disappearingsquare 661

#firstquilt #babyquilt #disappearingsquare 643

#firstquilt #babyquilt #disappearingsquare 660

#firstquilt #babyquilt #disappearingsquare 644

I had quite severe brain ache whilst making this.

Not the actual sewing, more of what colours to use:

#firstquilt #babyquilt #disappearingsquare 632

#firstquilt #babyquilt #disappearingsquare 631

#firstquilt #babyquilt #disappearingsquare 630

#firstquilt #babyquilt #disappearingsquare 629

#firstquilt #babyquilt #disappearingsquare 633

#firstquilt #babyquilt #disappearingsquare 634

I finally chose these, and after much googling the pattern of the disappearing 9 square.

Then I needed to choose the layout of my squares ones I’d chopped the into quarters:

#firstquilt #babyquilt #disappearingsquare 639

#firstquilt #babyquilt #disappearingsquare 638

#firstquilt #babyquilt #disappearingsquare 640

#firstquilt #babyquilt #disappearingsquare 637

The quilting design:

I made myself a piece to practice on

And practice I did!

#firstquilt #babyquilt #disappearingsquare 655

#firstquilt #babyquilt #disappearingsquare 651

#firstquilt #babyquilt #disappearingsquare 649

#firstquilt #babyquilt #disappearingsquare 648

#firstquilt #babyquilt #disappearingsquare 653

#firstquilt #babyquilt #disappearingsquare 657

#firstquilt #babyquilt #disappearingsquare 656

#firstquilt #babyquilt #disappearingsquare 650

#firstquilt #babyquilt #disappearingsquare 654

#firstquilt #babyquilt #disappearingsquare 652

And the binding:

#firstquilt #babyquilt #disappearingsquare 662

#firstquilt #babyquilt #disappearingsquare 663

And lastly, the easy bit – embroider her name – I’m glad I didn’t have to choose that too!!

Vogue 9082 – Muslin 1, 2 & 3! Oh, and lining it too!

Published by Thimberlina

I thought I’d share with you the fitting ~~dilemmas~~ of my most recent make – the Vogue 9082, view C. And also how I omitted the facing and fully lined this special dress when I joined in the BIG Vintage Sewalong.

As I eventually intend to make all three views, I traced all views in one big sitting to get it out of the way!

Whilst some sewers find the tracing process rather tedious I love it! Before tracing off I read the instructions all the way through, again. I say again as I’ve usually already read them as soon as I’ve brought a pattern home, or received it in the post.

By reading the instructions and then tracing the individual pieces you can learnt so much about the construction process before you even begin to piece the garment together. Or you notice things which you’ve not come across before.

Such as this piece here…..

This is the under collar of the jacket, and it is marked ‘stretch’ along the top piece. Not sure what that means but at least I’m thinking about it before i get to the making up stage.

And then I noticed these wonky pleats, and the straightness of the none existent hip curve…. When sewn up the pleats give the hip the required curve, only mine will be less as I need to grade in a size at the hip. But when I started graded down a size at the waist when tracing this piece i did look rather strange to me.

I made up the bodice in a straight size 18 using some cotton bought for £2/yd from Dewsbury market. I thought the squares would help me out when marking the fabric as I didn’t have a fitting pal.

MUSLIN NUMBER 1

As usual for me the bodice was too short at the front

The back too, but not as much

The width across the back seemed ok at this point.

I marked my bust points – definitely lower than on the pattern, must be gravity setting in!

I lengthened the bodice by 1 inch, and moved the front lower bust darts 1 1/2 inch towards the centre – my bust points where miles away from the ones on the pattern. I also lowered the side bust dart, and reduced some of the armscye – see the marking for the new cutting line.

I have an A1 size flip chart so I kept a note of my changes on there as I went along.

I added 1 inch to the length of the back, but lowered the finishing point of the dart by 1 inch so it was still the same size as the original dart…

MUSLIN NUMBER 2

The back looks huge – too long and too wide.

The side needed another dart to eliminate the excess fabric, and fit my shape…

I was happy with the length at the front.

I pinched out a full inch from the top of the bodice, grading to nothing at the waist (still on muslin no 2)

And needed to pinch out some of the length too – sway back adjustment needed.

Here’s the notes so far….

New side bust dart marked on the pattern:

Sway back adjustment on the back piece, and also taking out a ‘wedge’ from the centre back.

I chopped off the wedge from the CB and the chunk for the sway back. If there’s anyone cringing who has pattern making, drafting or fitting expertise I’m sorry. I’ve not had lessons in that department and make it up as I go along!! (I have read a lot of blogs though!)

excess removed from length of back bodice

And width. I squared of the bottom of the centre back seam

And the bit I had to chop off I added it to the side seam, thinking otherwise the waist would be too small to fit the skirt of the dress. NOTE TO SELF, I SHOULD ALSO HAVE MOVED THE DARTS THE SAME AMOUNT TOWARDS THE SIDE SEAMS AS ON THE FINISHED DRESS THEY WERE SLIGHTLY OUT OF LINE WITH THE DARTS OF ON BACK OF THE SKIRT!

Squaring up the top was a bit trickier because of the facings.

The facing were going to be chopped off and seam allowances added as I was fully lining the dress.

I removed the facing and left the top for muslin no 3 Burda style with no seam allowances so I’d get a better idea of the fit. The darts look a bit wonky here but I did true them up, honest!

MUSLIN NO 3, WITH SKIRT ATTACHED.

Unfortunately the photo looks worse than the fit was. It fit pretty well, as you’ll see in the next 2 photos.

there still looked to be a tiny bit of excess fabric in the length of the back bodice, but the make-do straps we’re much use and I thought this would improve in the final garment.

I was really happy with how the additional side bust dart improved the fit on the front. As I only added a short skirt to the bodice it hung a bit weird and forward. After tracing 21 pieces and making 3 muslins I was at this point happy to go full steam ahead and keep my fingers crossed that the skirt would fit.

The pattern piece of the top was looking rather messy to say the least!

Oh, at this point I also decided to move the waist bust darts back to their original position as the pleats on the front skirt were in a good position and I didn’t want to alter them.

I bent over the top facing, placed this piece against the crease of the paper and traced it off:

Adding seam allowances to the top:

Once it was opened up I had a full size piece which would making it easier to cut out the bodice front and choose the positions of the flowers.

Ta dah………….!!

I then made a pattern piece for interfacing which I thought would be needed to give some substance to the top of the dress. I traced to top of the dress identically and 2-3 inches down the sides.

And added a seam allowance to the back piece – I didn’t redraw as it wasn’t in such a state. I also make a pattern piece for interfacing too in the same way as the top above – sorry no photo!

For some reason the skirt of this dress is lined but not the bodice. As you already know I had decided I wanted to fully line my version of this dress.

I cut out front bodice and skirt pieces (front and back) in both the fashion fabric and lining. This mean 12 darts and 2 pleats for the fashion fabric and the same for the lining. OMG!!

Oh, well I soldiered on, but before adding all these darts I stay stitched all sides of the front and back bodice pieces and the waists of the skirt pieces. After all the fitting polava I’d gone through I wasn’t going to risk this fabric stretching out of shape!

I made up the dress in a slightly different order than the instructions. As I was going to be inserting an invisible zip (instead of a leaped zip) I wanted the front and back pieces complete before the zip was inserted.

After inserting it with a basting stitch and it not being quite so invisible (on ourpose) I basted the other side to check the fit. I needed to let out the side seams at the waist be 0.5 cm at each side, but then was able to steam ahead and stitch the side seams ‘for real’, and make the zip invisible! I don’t use an invisible foot, just a regular zipper foot and push the coils away with my fingers as I sew.

The lining was made up identical to the fashion fabric, except i wasn’t so fussy with the darts, and didn’t press them either.

Then comes the interesting part – sewing the lining to the dress, whilst adding interfacing to strengthen the top of the dress.

I sewed the front of interfacing to the back on one side, pressed the seam open and trimmed it to barely nothing.

I then pinned it to the wrong side of the dress, and trimmed away 1.5 cm (the seam allowance) off the side seams than weren’t stitched – this would make it less bulky for the invisible zip.

From here on I followed the tutorial for inserting an invisible zip with a lining from Paprika Patterns. I’d used it when I recently made their Amber Trousers and it worked a treat!

And it did this time too!

I wasn’t sure what to do with the lining beyond where the zip finished. Suggestions welcome!

Want to check out my pattern matching…?

Unfortunately I could only match up one side seam because of the size of the pattern repeat. I released this when I was cutting out and lost no sleep and ploughed ahead. It didn’t turn out too bad, and I’ve seen designer dresses in the shops with much worse matching problems. I don’t think anyone would notice except me.

So that’s it! My new best dress!

But before i go I’ll share with you a photo of me in it incase you’ve not read the original post.

On Sunday at the golf club I got into a conversation with one of my playing partners (a bloke) who didn’t believe I was into sewing.

I told him I’d just made a new dress to wear to Ripon races and I showed him the picture above, and he said “yea, as if, you never made that!”

i said I did and that it was me wearing it,

He then said “in your dreams, that’s not you!!”

I mean, I don’t wear a lot of make up at the golf club, but i didn’t think I looked that bad without my lipstick on, wearing my golf gear!

I took it as a compliment though, and had a big glow on the inside!

#Sunday Sevens 65

Published by Thimberlina

It’s a good job there’s no hard and fast rules with Natalie’s Sunday Sevens as I think I’d have well and truly broken them in the last month. If you want to share snippets of what goes on outside the sewing room, join in too! Head over to Nat’s blog or her Pinterest Board to see what it’s all about.

After being late off and coming home from work starving I whipped up a quick tea – leftover veg, beans and dry fried eggs. Not everyones cup of tea, but did the trick!

Rory’s found a new bed…..

Standing by in Salterhebble, Halifax….

I was a bit disappointed with this pic taken at Meltham Golf Club – I was hitting onto the green (where the yellow flag in) and behind it it drops away to a river – a scary shot! it doesn’t look quite as dramatic here.

I finally finished off my first proper quilt….. it went everywhere with me for about a week until I finished hand stitching the binding.

My dad had a rummage in the loft and brought out some old pics of Liam, my nephew who is now 26 and just had his first child – well his wife has. I think I was 19 here. It’s a shame rummaging through old photos will soon be a thing of the past.

In our dry cleaners entrance in Brighouse……

Someone took this pic of me whilst I was playing golf on Lady Captain’s Day without me knowing – it looks like I’m swinging with my eyes closed!

At night we had a do at the club for lady captain’s day – I got a lift there in a Ferrari!! Bit of a tight squeeze in the back, but I wasn’t complaining!

Me and my buddy with the next X Factor winner! Well, he’s not but he could be. He’s one of our golfing pals grandson and he sang and kept us entertained at lady captains night. Sue and I wished we were 20 years younger!!

Hillsborough Golf Club – our last A team match. Amazing scenery…..

Our day at Ripon races – a great excuse to get dolled up and wear a new frock!

Gorgeous weather coincided once with all the family being at home – no work and no cricket – so we were able to eat al fresco.

Pokeman everywhere – even at the cricket club!!!

Another meal al fresco, but this time in a beer garden.

Seeing the world through rose tinted glasses – literally… I used my sunglasses as a filter over the lens of my iPhone.

The view over happy valley – I’ve showed this before but I never get bored of the view when I stand by here.

A friend has worked in the garment industry for years and has loads of fabric, mostly from the 80’s. After a good rummage I came away with a bin liner full and gave a donation to charity.

The first batch of pre washing on the line….. it wouldn’t all fit on.

Our cleaner at work has retired. We had a collection and bought her a new cooker. She was over the moon. It was secretly installed one day last week when she was taken out for lunch.

Last Saturday I had a sewing day at the Fabbadashery, here’s a sneak peak but I’ll be writing a separate post….

Phew! I’m almost exhausted looking through that little lot! But it’s not all happened in just one week, I think it’s about 3 since I last did my Sunday Sevens. I try not to leave it too long till the next one.

Cheerio for now, and enjoy your week!